Views
1 year ago

Ariston Andris R 10-15-30 ltr Manual

  • Text
  • Wwwaristoncom
  • Manual
  • Andris
  • Ariston
  • Reducing
  • Installed
  • Fitted
  • Mains
  • Regulations
  • Tundish
  • Appliance
  • Discharge
  • Heater
  • Valve

INSTALLATION

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS a) For the user In order to obtain the best performance from the heater, the sacrificial anode must be checked every year and replaced as necessary. If the heating element is heavily coated with scale we recommend descaling and removing any lime deposit from the heater at the time of this inspection. Where the additional cold water controls are fitted, the expansion vessel will need to be recharged by the installer. Important note: The heater must be serviced annually. Failure to service which includes inspection and replacement of the sacrificial anode will invalidate warranty. b) For the installer WARNING: Switch off the power first. Access to the electrical components, the magnesium anode and water container is gained by unscrewing the 2 screws on the front cover. If the thermal cut-out has operated the cause must be found before resetting. To drain the heater close the service valve and: i) for under-sink models disconnect pipes and removed the heater from the wall. ii) for over-sink models undo the cold water supply pipe and open a hot water tap. The heating element may be removed (after taking out the thermostat phials on model 30 L) by undoing the M6 nut. The assembly should then be turned through 90° anti-clockwise to ease removal from the water container. Once the element is free from the water container the anode may then be inspected and removed if necessary When reassembling the cover make sure that the regulation knob is coupled with the thermostat. Check controls (where fitted) as per the following: - Line strainer - with the water supply turned off remove screen from strainer and clean of any detritus; - Expansion vessel - with the water supply turned off and taps open, check expansion vessel pressure and top up as necessary; - Temperature & pressure relief valve - with the water supply turned on, check manually by lifting the test lever/ turning the test knob (ensure valve closes after testing); - Expansion relief valve - check manually by turning the test knob (ensure valve closes after testing); - Discharge pipes (D1) - from both temperature & pressure relief and expansion relief valve for obstructions; - Tundish & discharge pipe (D2)- open either valve gradually to produce a full bore discharge into tundish and D2 without any back pressure; - Pressure reducing valve - check that the correct outlet pressure is being maintained by recording the pressure at an in-line terminal fitting i.e. tap 14 / EN

FAULT FINDING 1) Pressure and temperature valve dripping/running all the time. Cause: Thermal cut-out and thermostat have failed (this is only the case if the water being discharged is near to boiling). Mains pressure is too high. A pressure reducing valve must be fitted (see fig. 3). 2) Pressure relief valve dripping/running all the time. Cause: Mains pressure is above 3.5 bar. A pressure reducing valve must be fitted (see fig. 2). 3) Dripping while unit heating. Cause: Not enough pipe work for expansion; or stop-cock, non-return valve or pressure reducing valve has been fitted on the cold mains supply (see fig. 2). If an expansion vessel has been fitted, the charge may have failed. 4) No hot water. Cause: Thermal cut-out has operated. The heating element has burnt-out. The thermostat is faulty. 5) Milky water. Cause:This is a result of heavily limed and oxygenated water being heated. This is harmless and the cause is the water or a loose jumper washer in the outlet tap and not the heater itself. 6) No water at all. Cause: Valve incorrectly fitted. Debris in the mains. Mains water supply turned off. 7) Grey metallic deposit in the water Cause: Corrosion of the sacrificial anode. (Note: Corrosion of the sacrificial anode is normal operation of the unit) 8) Rapid depletion of the sacrifical anode (see 7) Cause: Di-electric junctions not fitted Water softener fitted on incoming supply to water heater (Softened will cause the anode to deplete more rapidly than hard water) Note Whilst Ariston do not advise against the use of water softener devices, the end user must be advised that rapid depletion of the sacrificial anode may occur as a result of the softened water which can result in metallic grey deposit in the water. 15 / EN

MANUALS

Views
1 year ago

Ariston Andris R 10-15-30 ltr Manual

  • Text
  • Wwwaristoncom
  • Manual
  • Andris
  • Ariston
  • Reducing
  • Installed
  • Fitted
  • Mains
  • Regulations
  • Tundish
  • Appliance
  • Discharge
  • Heater
  • Valve

INSTALLATION

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS a) For the user In order to obtain the best performance from the heater, the sacrificial anode must be checked every year and replaced as necessary. If the heating element is heavily coated with scale we recommend descaling and removing any lime deposit from the heater at the time of this inspection. Where the additional cold water controls are fitted, the expansion vessel will need to be recharged by the installer. Important note: The heater must be serviced annually. Failure to service which includes inspection and replacement of the sacrificial anode will invalidate warranty. b) For the installer WARNING: Switch off the power first. Access to the electrical components, the magnesium anode and water container is gained by unscrewing the 2 screws on the front cover. If the thermal cut-out has operated the cause must be found before resetting. To drain the heater close the service valve and: i) for under-sink models disconnect pipes and removed the heater from the wall. ii) for over-sink models undo the cold water supply pipe and open a hot water tap. The heating element may be removed (after taking out the thermostat phials on model 30 L) by undoing the M6 nut. The assembly should then be turned through 90° anti-clockwise to ease removal from the water container. Once the element is free from the water container the anode may then be inspected and removed if necessary When reassembling the cover make sure that the regulation knob is coupled with the thermostat. Check controls (where fitted) as per the following: - Line strainer - with the water supply turned off remove screen from strainer and clean of any detritus; - Expansion vessel - with the water supply turned off and taps open, check expansion vessel pressure and top up as necessary; - Temperature & pressure relief valve - with the water supply turned on, check manually by lifting the test lever/ turning the test knob (ensure valve closes after testing); - Expansion relief valve - check manually by turning the test knob (ensure valve closes after testing); - Discharge pipes (D1) - from both temperature & pressure relief and expansion relief valve for obstructions; - Tundish & discharge pipe (D2)- open either valve gradually to produce a full bore discharge into tundish and D2 without any back pressure; - Pressure reducing valve - check that the correct outlet pressure is being maintained by recording the pressure at an in-line terminal fitting i.e. tap 14 / EN

FAULT FINDING 1) Pressure and temperature valve dripping/running all the time. Cause: Thermal cut-out and thermostat have failed (this is only the case if the water being discharged is near to boiling). Mains pressure is too high. A pressure reducing valve must be fitted (see fig. 3). 2) Pressure relief valve dripping/running all the time. Cause: Mains pressure is above 3.5 bar. A pressure reducing valve must be fitted (see fig. 2). 3) Dripping while unit heating. Cause: Not enough pipe work for expansion; or stop-cock, non-return valve or pressure reducing valve has been fitted on the cold mains supply (see fig. 2). If an expansion vessel has been fitted, the charge may have failed. 4) No hot water. Cause: Thermal cut-out has operated. The heating element has burnt-out. The thermostat is faulty. 5) Milky water. Cause:This is a result of heavily limed and oxygenated water being heated. This is harmless and the cause is the water or a loose jumper washer in the outlet tap and not the heater itself. 6) No water at all. Cause: Valve incorrectly fitted. Debris in the mains. Mains water supply turned off. 7) Grey metallic deposit in the water Cause: Corrosion of the sacrificial anode. (Note: Corrosion of the sacrificial anode is normal operation of the unit) 8) Rapid depletion of the sacrifical anode (see 7) Cause: Di-electric junctions not fitted Water softener fitted on incoming supply to water heater (Softened will cause the anode to deplete more rapidly than hard water) Note Whilst Ariston do not advise against the use of water softener devices, the end user must be advised that rapid depletion of the sacrificial anode may occur as a result of the softened water which can result in metallic grey deposit in the water. 15 / EN